Guide des vins italiens

Discovering Italian wines (2/3)

In our first articleWe presented you with the wines of northern Italy, including a profile of the different grape varieties and appellations of the Piedmont and of the VenetoIn this second article, we take you to in the heart of Italy and more specifically within the major regions of the Tuscany, of theUmbria and Abruzzo, these three major regions in the center of the country.

Tuscan wines

A land with a long winemaking tradition

Since antiquity, the Tuscany is steeped in the passion for wine culture. Already 600 years BC, the Etruscans, inhabitants of Etruria (ancient Tuscany), practiced viticulture there and exported to Gaul. 

Over time, wine has become deeply ingrained in Italian culture. During the Middle Ages, Tuscany began producing a majority of red wines, making them an essential part of daily life for Italians. climat warm Mediterranean and the exposure on the rolling hills favors the production of wines that are still among the most renowned in the world today. Shaped by its mountainous geology, this region has more than 40 Protected Designations of Origin and GuaranteesThis testifies to its wealth and worldwide reputation. The wines are renowned for their power, their character and their elegance outstanding. 

In the 1960sTuscany is going through a particularly difficult period following significant economic difficulties. It will be necessary to wait until the years 1980 so that this region may rise from its ashes. Today, the Tuscany has once again become a land of wines par excellence and includes, among its productions, prestigious wines with an international reputation.

The main appellations and grape varieties of Tuscany

Just like Piedmont and Veneto, the region of Tuscany must face an equally complex system of appellations strict And complexIndeed, the Tuscan vineyard is distinguished by its great heterogeneity and its varied geologyIt is not uncommon to hear that Tuscany is to France what the Bordeaux vineyards are to France, that is, the traditionally most productive region in the country.

While the older appellations are located in the heart of Tuscany, it is necessary to distinguish them from the newer ones, which are found around the traditional historical centers. Among these are some of the main appellations such as Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti or Chianti Classico.  

  • Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

The name Brunello di Montalcino is surely the more noble of Tuscany. Located in the far south of the Chianti region in the hills of the province of SienaThis DOCG is also located in the heart of a fortress dating back to 1361 around the town of Montalcino. 

The designation covers a total of 24,000 hectares of which only 15 % are planted with vines. climat is Mediterranean and predominantly dryThe vineyard benefits from an ideal location. Indeed, in the south of the appellation, the vines are protected by the Mount Amiata, an ancient volcano. This limits exposure to thunderstorms and hailstorms thanks to its peak altitude of 1740 meters. 

Regarding the grape varieties, the Sangiovese is king, since it is the only one authorized within the appellation. The vines of the DOCG Brunello di Montalcino are located on soils with a tendency towards limestone and are exposed to maritime influencesThese characteristics contribute to the production of wines with theidentify, At character and to the marked power. 

Brunello di Montalcino is one of the oldest appellations in the country. First created as DOC in 1966she became DOCG in 1980Although wines were already being produced there before, it was only on a very small scale. The creation of the appellation therefore very quickly increased the international renown from the region and the number of producers has multiplied. Today, Brunello di Montalcino is undoubtedly the appellation the most renowned of the country.

  • Chianti DOCG

Created in 1984 from the 1967 Chianti DOC, the DOCG Chianti is part of iconic names from the Tuscany region. However, this appellation has long suffered from a bad reputation due to the quality of its wine, considered mediocre and entry-level. 

Following the change in designation, several regulations had to be implemented regarding production rules. Initially, the blending of international grape varieties was prohibited, with only local Sangiovese used. Today, the Chianti must contain 70 to 100% of Sangiovese and has the possibility of being supplemented by local grape varietiesHowever, the cabernet sauvignon And cabernet franc should not represent more than 15% of the assembly.  

  • Chianti Classico DOCG

Chianti Classico is a DOCG derived from the Chianti DOC located in the Chianti region between Florence And SienaWhile these two designations were originally grouped together, it will be necessary to wait 1996 so that they detach completely. Originally, the Chianti Classico was simply called “ClassicoThis designation was intended to ensure that the name represented only wines produced in this very precise geographical area. 

Although at the time of its creation, in 1967The production yield was lower than that of other Chiantis, the alcohol content should be higherHowever, no difference was regulated regarding the grape varieties used between the two appellations. Therefore, one could find... Sangiovese 50 to 80%, canaiolo between 10 and 30% Then trebbiano toscano and malvasia del chianti between 10 and 30%. 

Of the 1996, during the separation of the two designationsThe regulations have changed. Originally, Chianti Classico was supposed to contain only 2 to 5% of white grapes, this mandatory presence was subsequently removed, thus becoming a tolerated practice. 2014, a new regulation has been put in place, stipulating an obligation for the presence of at least 80% of Sangiovese in the production of Chianti Classicopossibly supplemented by local grape varieties. 

In parallel, the mention Riserva It also requires additional regulations, with a longer aging process than simple Chianti. The wines must therefore be aged... 12 months in barrels or casks, then at least 3 months in the bottle. 

  • Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

Located between the Lake Trasimene And Montalcino, this DOCG was the first to attain DOCG status in 1980With a lighter soil than in the Chianti or Montalcino appellations, the wines are also more lightweightIn order to be recognized as Vino NobileProducers must age their wine for at least two years from January 1st following the harvest. However, they can choose to age their wine between 12 and 24 months in wooden barrels.

Wines of Umbria

A wine region in the heart of the rolling Italian hills

Long overshadowed by its neighboring region of Tuscany, theUmbria today it is part of the wine-growing regions the most important in Italy and to the international reputationLocated in the western part of the region, the vineyard is located not far from the towns of Perugia, Seated or OrvietoThis region also has a very rich history, since there are 300 years The first vines were already planted there. It is also the only Italian wine region to produce as many red wines as white wines.

Considered one of the Italy's most beautiful wine regionsUmbria owes its reputation primarily to the production of its white winesOrvieto, for example, is among the wines to taste at the top of the list. 

Umbria is a small wine-growing region in climat continentalIts landscape is similar to Tuscany, but the area is not affected by maritime influence. One finds... hot summers And sunny and winters instead costs And rainy. This climat, similar to that of the neighboring region, it is ideal for the production of red wineswhich contributes to the creation of wines at character so pronounced. For white wines, the significant temperature differences between day and night contribute to the creation of wines elegant and to the minerality So typical. 

The main appellations and grape varieties of Umbria

In 2014Umbria had 15 appellations : 13 DOC against 2 DOCGAmong the most important are Montefalco Sagrantino, Torgiano Rosso Riservaor even OrvietoIn this region, wine production is very diverse. From white and red to rosé and sparkling wines, Umbria is full of production areas. 

  • Orvieto DOC

Created in 1971The Orvieto DOC is the main name of Umbria. Divided into two categories, it includes the original traditional area with Orvieto Classico, the birthplace of the appellation, as well as the rest of the vineyard, with much more recent plantings. For this appellation, the blending regulations are identical in each category. One must find... trebbiano toscano and of the grechetto at a minimum 60 %However, they can be complemented by other grape varieties.

  • Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG

Torgiano Rosso Riserva is the equivalent of the Torgiano DOC, created in 1990Wines of this appellation must contain at least 70% of Sangiovese, which can be supplemented with canaiolo, a local grape variety. 

  • Torgiano DOC

Torgiano is the first wine-growing area of Umbria, located south of PerugiaThis appellation is also the one that gave rise to the DOCG Torgiano Rosso Riserva, presented below. In total, the Torgiano vineyard extends over 250 hectares of vineyards and is considered the first region to obtain the appellations DOC in 1968 And DOCG in 1990. THE floors are very rich, clay compounds, of sand and pebblesWithin Torgiano, the wines are renowned for their structure, their wealth in mineral salts and their high alcohol content. 

Significantly more versatile than the DOCG, the permitted grape varieties can be much more varied. Among them are the chardonnay, THE Pinot Grigio, THE trebbiano toscano, THE Sangiovese, THE cabernet sauvignon or even the Pinot Nero. 

  • Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is recognized for its quality of its red winesWithin this appellation, the Sagrantino grape variety reigns supreme, as regulations stipulate that no other grape variety may be cultivated. Furthermore, vinification and aging are equally strict, as they must be carried out on a minimum of 33 months, of which 12 in oak barrels. 

  • Montefalco DOC

Another important wine region in Umbria is the Montefalco DOC. Its nickname, " balcony of Umbria or even Umbria railings » comes from its geographical location in altitudeLocated east of Perugia, this appellation has the unique feature of offering mountain views from any vantage point in the valley. 

Within Montefalco, one also finds... white wines that red winesWhile previously only red wines were permitted, the new regulations of 1990 have amended the permits to include white wine production in the charter. Here again, red wine production must contain at least 60 to 70% of Sangiovese And 10 to 15% of sagrantinoWhite wines, on the other hand, should be structured around... 50% of grechetto And 20 to 35% Trebbiano Toscano.

Wines of Abruzzo

A land full of history

If the map of the names of the Abruzzo While still relatively simple with 8 DOCs and only one DOCG, this region in central Italy is nonetheless steeped in history. Here, the grape variety Montepulciano is king. Close to the Sangiovese and benefiting from ideal climatic conditions, it offers a very beautiful identity to wines. 

Just like the vineyard of the Tuscany and UmbriaThe Abruzzo region is essentially located in the heart of the hills and mountains of central Italy. However, Abruzzo has the distinction of being close to the Adriatic SeaCombined with the altitude, these characteristics give the wine a singular character as well as a freshness outstandingThe wines are renowned for their richness of flavors so unique and their great storage potential.

The main appellations and grape varieties of Abruzzo

We had to wait 2002 so that the wines of the Abruzzo region are protected. Among the main appellations are the DOCG Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Hill Teramane, there DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo or even the DOC Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.

  • Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Hill Teramane DOCG

While until 2003 this appellation was only part of the larger Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC, the quality of the grapes, considered significantly superior in this region, contributed to the creation of this DOCG. Here, the wines must contain at least 90% Montepulciano and must be raised in wooden vats for at least 12 months. 

  • Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a DOC created in 1968This makes it one of the oldest appellations in the region. As for regulations, the wines must contain at least 85 % of the grape variety MontepulcianoAs for livestock farming, a minimum of 9 months on wood is required. 

  • DOC Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

Created in 1972The Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC produces wines whose grape varieties are based on Trebbiano d'Abruzzo (major grape variety) bombino bianco And trebbiano toscanoThus, Tuscany, Umbria and Abruzzo offer a great diversity of wine. These two major regions in the center of the country are absolutely worth discovering and adding to your cellar. Don't miss our next article, which will focus on the wines of southern Italy, including the Sicilian region!

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